It would even keep going left for a couple of seconds even without touching the L joystick. The 2nd pro con was tolerable to play with until a few days ago.when I try to go right with the L joystick, it would go left instead. With that scenario, my 2nd pro con started to drift ahead of the 1st pro con. Both are stored just on top of the tv console. One bought earlier than the other with the 2nd/newer one getting less use until ACNH came out. My gratitude and all credit goes to the author the author also noted to spread the word and so here’s the resource: įor a “background story” on the condition of my pro con, I have two pro cons. This process was not mentioned in the article. I followed a guide I found and it worked out really well for my drifting (2nd) pro con. So frustrating especially in a close battle in the final 10!Īnyone else familiar with this issue or is it isolated to mine? When I use the Pro Controller's D-pad it causes so many screw ups because again I swear I hit either right or left and instead the piece snaps down into place wherever as if I hit the up command. I need that precision with speed and placement (I use the instant up drop command religiously). It's this issue is why I MUST use the joy cons to play Tetris 99. In a game like MHGU when these situations occur it can seriously be the deciding factor between living and dead (especially on EX monster hunts!!!). Or sometimes neither presses will register the first time pressed. Sometimes I swear I know I hit the up command but the right command will execute or vice versa. Most notably with games that only use it for certain actions that are not movement.įor example when I play Monster Hunter GU I have my hunter arts assigned to the D-Pad. I've never had any drift issues with the Pro Controller's stick(s) HOWEVER I swear my D-pad can be wonky sometimes. It’s possible you may be charged for a repair depending on various circumstances, so be prepared to cough up a bit to get back on the Pro Controller train. In that case your only other option is to get in touch with Nintendo directly and discuss repairing the controller with them. It’s possible to replace the analogue sticks in a Pro Controller, but we’re not really happy to recommend that the sticks are soldered in place which may seem trivial to some, but there’s too much that can go wrong with a soldering iron for us to feel comfortable taking you through that, nor the process of ordering replacement sticks. Once you’ve completed that you should now have a fully-working Pro Controller again, unless there was something else wrong with it like the A button had melted. Still not working perfectly? Don’t worry, a quick recalibration just like before should solve any woes that may befall you. Return to the Stick Calibration screen and test out your newly cleaned stick. Follow the instructions, and don’t go being a silly sausage now you hear? Make sure you follow the instructions on the can of compressed air that you have, as some contain a liquid that may potentially damage your controller. Grab your handy can of compressed air and blast these intrusive bits of rubbish out of your precious equipment. In all likelihood you’re going to see dust, debris, hair, the usual suspects for why precise electronics aren’t cutting the proverbial mustard. Once it’s open you’ll be able to access the problem stick’s internal gubbins and have a proper look at what’s going on. Don’t worry, if you click this link it will take you right to the part of our handy guide video that should help you out if you’re not sure what to do or where, but it’s a fairly simple procedure as long as you pay attention to which screws come from where, and make sure you don’t lose any. You’ll need to disassemble the Pro Controller to a degree in order to effectively clean it, as unlike the Joy-Con there’s no rubber skirt you can pull up to access the stick’s internals. Small Phillips Head Screwdriver (long-necked).If you’re still stuck in a drifting pickle, you’ll need to get a few supplies, namely these:
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